Itinerário técnico
Um guia de cultivo passo a passo, da sementeira à colheita.
Sow in trays six to eight weeks before planting out, half a centimetre deep, at 22 °C to 25 °C. Germination takes seven to fourteen days. Like tomato it can be planted with the stem buried up to the first leaves. Plant outside once frost risk has passed. Always sow at least two plants, because the flower is self-incompatible and without cross-pollination there is no fruit.
It tolerates average soils and adapts well, as long as they drain freely, with a pH between 5.5 and 7.0. Over rich soil gives huge plants and little fruit. It is considerably tougher than tomato.
It likes full sun and warmth, between 20 °C and 28 °C, but stands stress better than tomato. The plant is broad and sprawling and needs plenty of room or a support. On the Portuguese coast the crop starts slowly because nights stay cool and morning fog keeps the leaves wet for hours, so pick the sunniest spot you have, shelter it from wind and space the plants generously so air moves through. Inland in Portugal and Spain heat rather than cold is the limiting factor: in weeks above 35 °C the plant stalls and light shade over midday pays for itself. In France outdoor growing is reliable from the centre southwards, while in northern France and in Germany a greenhouse, a polytunnel or a warm south facing wall makes the difference, and planting out should wait until after the mid May cold snap. Where summers are short, always choose the shorter cycle varieties and start them early in a heated tray. In Italy it is an easy crop: in the centre and south plant from April onwards and the only real care is light shade through the July and August heat; in the Po valley and the north wait for the late frosts to pass and pick the sunniest spot you have. This is a long cycle variety. Inland in Portugal and Spain and in southern France it finishes without difficulty, but on the cool Atlantic coast, in northern France and in Germany it only gets there if started early with bottom heat and grown in a greenhouse, a tunnel or against a south facing wall.
Its needs are moderate. One to two kilos of mature compost per square metre worked in before sowing covers most of the cycle. If the leaves pale, one watering with a balanced liquid organic feed halfway through is enough. Never use fresh manure, which burns roots and encourages disease.
Water moderately and regularly. It is more drought tolerant than tomato, but a shortage during fruit fill sharply reduces fruit size. Water at the base and mulch the soil with straw.
Hand weed in the first weeks, while the plant is small and loses every contest for light and water. Once it is established, mulch with five to seven centimetres of straw, dried grass or leaves: it holds weeds back, keeps moisture in and stops rain splashing soil onto the lower leaves, which is how most diseases begin. Always hoe shallowly so you do not cut the roots running just under the surface.
It is attacked less than the other nightshades. Watch for aphids, whitefly and Colorado potato beetle, which also likes this plant. Potassium soap and hand picking are enough in most cases. Cutworms can sever young plants: protect them with a cardboard collar.
It is fairly resistant. In damp weather it can pick up powdery mildew and leaf spots, and in waterlogged soil the roots rot. Wide spacing, watering at the base and a three year rotation away from other nightshades handle almost everything.
The fruit is ready when it completely fills the papery husk and the husk starts to split or dry. Fruit still rattling loose inside the husk is not ripe. Many fruits drop to the ground exactly at their point and can simply be picked up. Left in its husk it keeps for several weeks somewhere cool. Allow about 90 days from transplanting to the first harvest of this variety. The reference colour is green, and that is what tells you it is ready.
