Climbing green bean with long, flat, fleshy and very aromatic, stringless pods. An old, robust variety that grows well outdoors and in a greenhouse. A vigorous plant that reaches 120–170 cm and crops abundantly.
Indicative windows; adjust them to your local climate.
Direct sowing
Growing guide
How to grow green bean helda?
A step-by-step growing guide, from sowing to harvest.
Sowing
Always sow direct where it is to grow, three or four centimetres deep, with the soil already above 15 °C. Germination takes five to ten days. Sowing into cold wet soil rots the seed before it emerges, and that is the mistake that fails this crop most often. Do not soak the seed, despite what is often said: it swells and splits. This is a climbing variety and needs a support of two metres or more, put in before or at sowing, because fitting it later damages the roots. It produces for far longer than dwarf varieties and yields much more per square metre, but needs the shoots guided onto the support regularly in the first weeks.
Soil
It adapts to average soils as long as they are loose, free draining and not over rich in nitrogen, at a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. It fixes its own nitrogen and leaves the soil enriched for the next crop, which makes it an excellent rotation opener. It dislikes compacted or waterlogged ground.
Climate
It needs warmth, between 18 °C and 27 °C, and tolerates no frost at any stage. Above 32 °C the flowers drop without setting, which causes a gap in production at the height of an inland summer. Shelter it from strong wind, which breaks loaded plants. On the Portuguese coast pick the sunniest spot sheltered from wind and space the plants well, because morning fog keeps the leaves wet for hours. Inland in Portugal and Spain heat is the limit: above 35 °C the plant stops setting and light shade over midday helps. In France outdoor growing is reliable from the centre southwards; in the north and in Germany sow only after mid May, once the frost risk has passed, and choose a south facing wall or a tunnel. In Italy sow from April onwards in the centre and south, with light shade through the July and August heat, and after the late frosts in the north. This is an early variety, which makes it particularly suited to short summer regions such as northern France and Germany, and also to a late second crop in the south.
Fertilisation
It fixes its own nitrogen through root nodule bacteria, so it should not be given nitrogen fertiliser. Add mature compost only if the soil is poor and, if needed, a little wood ash for potassium. Feeding nitrogen is the classic mistake with this crop: it produces huge plants with few pods.
Watering
Water moderately until flowering and then generously and regularly, because pod fill decides the crop. Always water at the base and in the morning: wet foliage is the doorway for anthracnose and bacterial blight. A straw mulch holds moisture without wetting the leaves.
Weed control
Hoe often and always shallowly, because the roots are short, near the surface and break easily. The best method is to prepare the bed two or three weeks in advance, let the first flush of weeds germinate, remove it and only then sow: that gives you a decisive head start. A thin layer of sieved compost between the rows greatly reduces later work.
Pest control
Aphids gather on the soft shoots and the flowering tips and weaken the plant badly: cut off the affected tips and apply potassium soap at the end of the day. Slugs and snails devour newly emerged seedlings, which is the main cause of gaps in the row: protect with an ash barrier for the first two weeks. Birds pull up seeds and shoots and are dealt with using netting or a light fleece over the row until the plants are ten centimetres tall. Also watch for thrips and for grubs boring into the pods, and remove any damaged pods.
Diseases
Anthracnose and bacterial blight make dark sunken spots on pods and leaves in damp weather, and spread by water and contact: never work among the plants while the foliage is wet. Powdery mildew covers the leaves with a white bloom late in the cycle. Rust forms orange pustules on the underside. Root rot appears in cold waterlogged soil, above all after sowing too early. Sow with generous spacing, water at the base and rotate on a three to four year cycle away from other legumes.
Harvest
For green beans, pick young and every other day, when the pod snaps cleanly and the seeds are still barely visible. Letting pods swell makes the plant stop producing, and that is where most of the crop is lost. Hold the stem with one hand and pull the pod with the other, so you do not break the plant. For dry beans, let the pods dry fully on the plant and thresh in dry weather. Allow about 60 to 70 days from sowing to the first harvest of this variety. The reference colour is green, and that is what tells you it is ready.
